By Nadia Hall / Bermuda Magazine, January 2015
One head among many, Greg of Bermuda Greens pushes through the buzzing dining room, obscured by what can only be described as a lush, green, overgrown lawn on a tray. This grass on a plate is Bermuda grown wheatgrass and we’re witness to the daily delivery before it takes pride of place on the mantle behind the counter. Chef Matthew Pridham swears by it and drinks the earthly sweet “shots” daily. Their “farm to table” philosophy is clearly present in all they offer, from the wheatgrass and sprouts to the open fridge packed with colourful, fresh vegetables for their cold pressed juices. A Bermuda Micro Greens Salad features Tucker’s Farm Goat Cheese, when in season, and Devil’s Isle has its own plot of land that should see them growing their own come summer. Local “Green Thumb” Omari Dill is tending to their garden.
Devil’s Isle is named after their pre-existing, successful Coffee business, that in turn took inspiration from the island in its original raw, uncharted and unpopulated state. Historically known as the Isle of Devils, Bermuda, and its wild cacophony of sounds heard from the ocean, was steeped in mystery. They aim to make everything from scratch. Not only their own-roasted coffee beans but their ketchup and other condiments are all made internally. They smoke their own sustainable Scottish salmon and the sandwich is served on your choice of bread, freshly baked in house.
Miraculously, their gluten-free focaccia rivals their gluten-full offerings. Spiked with fresh herbs and sun dried tomato, the breadmaker’s father, a well-know baker in Austria, perfected the recipe. The side salad is their signature Kale Caesar. Unlike your average creamy, iceberg offering, theirs has chopped kale, baby spinach and aged parmesan tossed in a light smoky bacon Caesar vinaigrette. The original Caesar, Matthew informs me, was an oil-based recipe. The croutons are, you guessed it, toasted chunks of their own bread.
The dinner menu offers food in “Small” or “Large Plates.” “We want people to come and socialize,” he explains the method. “You go for dinner and want to try everybody else’s!” This way you can get a little bit of everything you fancy or, if you prefer, a lot. New to the menu are oysters fresh from the East Coast. Friday nights see the downstairs deli transformed into an Oyster and Vodka Bar. The perfect setting with its stark, white, French butcher tiles, the design was a collaboration with Kaitlyn Cowan of Isolated Designs – a subsidiary of the eponymous surf and skate shop. Devil’s Isle Kitchen & Bar seems to be ticking so many boxes, you’ll wonder how you were eating and drinking before it came along.
1 – Local Wheatgrass Shot Equivalent to eating 3 lbs of leafy greens, a shot of wheatgrass is packed full of toxin removing, cancer fighting properties.
2 – Chef Matthew Pridham
3 – Eggs Benedict Two poached eggs with prosciutto on rosti potato, hollandaise sauce and arugula
4 – Bartender Tristan Mosley
441 292 3284 / 16 Burnaby Street, City of Hamilton